Nihan Buruk is cool, like really cool. When the likes of Made in Chelsea turn up to most shows, there’s a groan of discomfort from the fashion crowd. Not at Buruk’s shows, her young skill is needless of celebrity endorsement, it’s a kind of cool that reaches beyond flavour-of-the-month celebrity culture. Her collections are suited to the modern day, they’re wearable, durable and functional.
She provides an androgynous kind of tailoring which so many other bright young designers miss the mark on. As the first day of fashion week drew to a close, and many headed home as the sky opened up once again, the chattering of teeth outside Freemason’s Lodge was trumped only by the murmurs of what the upcoming ‘Plastichaos’ show had to offer.
Skipping the metallic trend which has become a bad taste in the mouth already, Buruk offers up a range of muted silver, lime green and off white tones, scrawled over with a light, black swirl; setting her apart from much of what has come before. Moreover, the clothes were the most overtly summery of the day. Billowing trousers, weightless tops and oversized blazers made the collection stylish and wearable. In fact the clothes are so cool, so practical and so without effort, you could imagine the models walking off the runway and onto the street, if it wasn’t raining so heavily outside.
The show was also the first of the day to feature men at Freemason’s. If the women are effortlessly stylish, the men are nothing less than laid back, pared down, easy going chic. Patterned jumpers are teamed with tight trousers and oversized, plastic effect bags. Hair is pushed into slick, easy quiffs and worn with American varsity-style jackets patterned with the same scrawl as the women’s collection. It is the men’s clothes – tapered, tailored and tight as they are – that prove NIAN’s show to be truly versatile; worn by women or men the collection would look sleek, stylish and structured.
Makeup was Bowie-esq, with white lightning bolt style flashes across the women’s faces. Combined with simple, neat eyeliner and wet look hair the effect is dramatic, disarming and androgynous. My personal favourite of the day, NIAN has proven again that her style is an effortless cool which leaks into every element of her show.