We all agree that London is a little edgier than its American counterpart, and a little wilder than Europe. Which is just as well, really. This translated to some of the great beauty looks seen stomping down the runway, such a treat.
Always an important influence at London Fashion Week, street style was seen all over the London shows. And how could London possibly do streety style without punk? The epitome of British street fashion manifested itself in both hair and makeup at Simone Rocha, whose models exuded school girl-anarchy cool with amazing Mohawk-inspired hair styles and a flushed, natural makeup look that incorporated a strong reddish-pink blush on cheeks and eyes.
Make-up artist Sam Bryant (MAC) plumped for ‘raw and punky…cold sea West of Ireland’, no doubt inspired in part by the designer’s own Irish roots. The punky aesthetic was injected into eye makeup at Roksanda Ilincic (Lucia Pica, MAC) and Sister by Sibling (Miranda Joyce, MAC) too. Pica created a rebellious graphic liner shape with distinct straight edges and a space between the upper and lower strokes for Roksanda Ilincic, which was paired with very clean skin to maximise impact.
Joyce’s look focused on a strong thick triangular winged liner shape, again using very harsh straight edges to add a sense of punky anarchism to the look, finished off with a burgundy coloured stained lip. Anarchic make up was taken all the way at Vivienne Westwood as usual, with extreme Siouxsie Siou-meets-samurai warrior monochrome face paint (perhaps one to avoid trying at home, unless you’re thinking about Halloween fancy-dress looks already!)
70s Glamazon/Bohemian Beauty
For those of us not inclined towards edgy punky looks, many of LFW’s models also sported a 70s look, be it bronzed glamazon or bohemian beauty. At one end of the scale, Andrew Gallimore (MAC) created a colourful, glamorous 70s look at Holly Fulton, comprising frosty-nude lips, lilac shadow on the brow bones, bronzed cheekbones and fluttery eyelashes.
Lisa Eldridge (Benefit) created a similarly glossy 70s look for Matthew Williamson, with plum tones on lashes and lips and bronze contouring on temples, cheekbones and jawline finished with highlighter. Taking a different approach, Paul Smith’s models emerged onto the runway, an army of ‘young Jane Birkins’ fashioned by MAC’s Petros Petrohilos, complete with fake freckles, dewy skin and doe-like eyes heavy with mascara and a subtly glossy nude lip.
And one last surprising beauty trend… pink on eyes!
Yes, you heard that right. Following on from the appearance of blusher used as eye shadow in New York (who’d’ve thought it?) London’s make-up artists also opted for pinky tones on eyelids. This ranged from porcelain doll matchy-matchy blusher and eyeshadow at Meadham Kirchhoff, complete with a red semi-glossy lip (Florrie White, MAC) to a more subtle tonal look at Burberry, where a warm cinnamon-peach colour reigned on lids, face and lips for a subtle lady-like polish.