Around the back of Central Saint Martins this evening was held palmer//harding’s autumn/winter 2014 presentation. The room itself, designed by Malcolm Pate, was complemented with the scent of ‘paperback’ books, courtesy of Demeter Fragrance Library, giving the space an all-inclusive feeling of togetherness.
According to the show notes, ‘the modest elegance of paper serves as a cleanser to the mind’, inviting evocation of a pure, clean space. And many of the pieces were just that, pure and clean but not simple. No, palmer harding experimented with textures to mirror the life and consistency of paper; models’ hair was semi-crimped, while whole looks contrasted shredded with flat, shiny surfaces. Reflecting always the versaltily of paper itself, different treatments were added to fabric for ultimate smoothness while patent leather contrasts combined to reflect different tactile and visiaul qualities.
Hues ranged from highlighter yellow to oaky, rusty burgundies and browns, shining a light on the workman’s tools and the inspiration surface itself.
The collection as a whole was modern and – to use the worst ‘fashion word’ possible – wearable. And that’s no sin. I left making a wishlist of my favourite pieces, those that would slip comfortably into a daily wardrobe: bomber jackets, just-below-the-knee skirts and the pinnacle of great fashion finds, the crisp white shirt.