Milan. The third stop of the most important month in the fashion world. It was an extremely difficult task to choose from a week filled with so much beauty, but somebody had to do it.
Alberta Ferretti’s show felt like dreaming of walking into enchanted woods – a sanctuary for your mind and body you would never want to leave. The collection is truly a Midsummer’s Night Dream. The palette of colors chosen by the designer calls for a total union with the natural world. The prevalence of sage along with a variety of shades of green and brown accompanied by embroideries of flowers take us on a journey of rediscovery of everything coming directly from the earth. The dresses feel both extremely light and elaborate at the same time thanks to a rich but calibrated use feathers and tree textures. The collection is ethereal but also able to create a gloomy atmosphere, especially with the evening gowns. The contrast of black and white between the two final pieces gave me the impression that they were conceptualized as co-existing parts of the struggling soul of a woman torn between two identities. The white gown representing a more angelic side and the black one a lethally seductive dark side. The show ended as these words echoed in the room, summarizing the story that had just been told: ““I am a tree, my roots are deep in the ground and I can just be…just be and just do all that a tree does”. This was the conclusion of perfectly harmonious and graceful collection.
Dolce & Gabbana
The atmosphere is theatrical from the beginning. On the notes of Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker, a big curtain opens revealing a winter wonderland setting. A huge tree starts appearing while snow starts falling. In the meantime the models begin to make their way on the catwalk with the grace of mysterious magical creatures. The garments are immersed in the world that was created around them, rich coats with furry hoods and velvet jumpers have flowers and little inhabitants of the woods such as foxes, owls and squirrels embroidered on them along with precious gems. Smooth silk jersey dresses with vivid floral prints followed. The finale was outstanding. After a stunning red chiffon gown leaves the scene, an army of knights invades the catwalk marching with style wrapped in sparkling chainmail-like dresses. It was truly a flawless fairy-tale with edge, in perfect Dolce & Gabbana flair.
3 words: Biting tomboyish elegance. Both collections presented by one of the masters of Italian fashion, Giorgio Armani, revolved around the infinite shades of gray. Although the Emporio Armani collection for this autumn/winter had something I could not take my eyes off of. The first look of the collection was a stunning gray tailleur-pantalon in Prince of Wales check. A further confirmation – not that we needed one – of Armani’s astonishing sartorial skills. That suit is still relentlessly haunting me. Many more variations of tuxedos followed from iconic gangster pinstriped ones to black suede ones. If you have a thing for suites like myself this is the collection – and the man – you need. Of course, dresses were not excluded from the show sported by rigorously short haired models always recalling the sobriety established by the suits at the beginning of the show.
The title of the show says it all: Call of the Wild. If Alberta Ferretti dived into the theme of nature exploring its relaxing tones and Dolce & Gabbana added a personal dreamy twist with medieval touches, Peter Dundas gave us the brightness of colours and roughness of the outdoors. From animalier printed dresses to a voluminous fur coat in a burning orange this collection will put you in the mood for a ride in the desert. The evening is seductive with dresses that no matter what length they are will allow any woman to feel powerful and provocative. The transparencies in the gowns are certified head turners.
Last but not least: Jeremy Scott’s debut collection with Moschino. A real showstopper. If you thought that worldwide fast food chain McDonald’s could not penetrate our lives any deeper than it already has, think again. Meet McMoschino. Scott quite literally served his creations on trays presenting fast food themed bags. He also turned Spongebob Squarepants into a fur coat, a dress and pretty much anything you can think of. The common packaging of a Hershey’s chocolate bar was turned into a ballgown. Next time you’ll be in the mood for some comfort food you won’t be able to look at all those delicious things in the same way. The show ended with a runaway bride wrapped around another intriguing gown with a newspaper print. Jeremy Scott is well known for his sense of humor and gave a chic and playful twist to elements of otherwise mundane pop culture.