Brock Collection’s pieces always evoke the feel of the old English countryside with their beautifully traditional dresses. On their Instagram they described this collection as as being like an ‘English garden at midnight’ and signifying the ‘subtle nocturnal air like the barely-there scent of idling tobacco or vetiver in a dressing room’. It’s a collection which evokes tradition, but tradition with secret and mystery. The ruffled gown is paired with a smarter blazer, evoking this idea of the norm and the different being mixed together.
The Oscar de la Renta show was unusually late, with a 9pm time slot. However the designers wanted to create a party collection referring to the glamour of Truman Capote’s 1966 Black and White Ball as inspiration. They worked this into the traditional bright colour blocking of Oscar de la Renta. The stand out piece was the dress worn by Bella Hadid pictured above, a bright pink velvet dress embellished with matching feathers and sculpted into a beautifully constructed shape.
The prints for Jonathan Cohen’s collection all began with sketches of roses in different stages of blooming. He said this process of free drawing took him back to the freedom fashion sketching brought him in his youth. This is turn led him to use rich vibrant colours and create pieces with fun contrasting textures. Jonathan Cohen is dedicated to sustainability, therefore this collection included recycle Italian cashmere, the use of fabric scraps and also Econyl which is regenerated nylon. Jonathan Cohen also collaborated with Dr Martens and Swarovski to produce the crystal encrusted boots, covered in recycled crystals.
This collection was a flashback to the 70s with its tailoring and materials. Zadig and Voltaire’s designer Bönström was inspired by their childhood, with memories of their mother’s and grandparents’ style. This collection works to make androgyny out of the masculine suit, Bönström said the underlying message is that the ‘Zadig girl is proud and owning her femininity, but she is also androgynous’.
Rodarte’s show evoked cinematic inspiration from gothic stories such as Dracula and Only Lovers Left Alive. The location St Bartholomew’s Church reflected this, creating the perfect gothic vibe of a darkly romantic setting paired with the cutesy but also secretive clothes. For example, the veil above suggests romance and brides, yet paired with the rest of the aesthetic suggests a dark innocence and secrecy. I am also obsessed with the romantic daintiness of the little white gloves, I think they’re an item that majorly needs to make a comeback.
Adam Lippes collection gave off the aura of comfort and practicality without compromising aesthetic and fashion. His clothes were fluid yet pragmatic, well fitted yet loose suits perfect for the fashionable city dweller. Fun details were added with ruffled cuffs and as pictured above exaggerated ruffled necklines similar to an Elizabethan style collar.
Adeam’s collection was their own interpretation of athleisure, with many brands moving to this aesthetic it can seem tiresome and overdone. Yet, Adeam managed to stay true to their brand and create a unique sporty collection. They were inspired by a Japanese football game from the Heian period called Kemari, where aristocrats would play the game in their gardens in decorative kimonos. The idea of beauty and luxury paired with sport is seen in Adeam’s collection, as seen in the look above the flowing sheer delicate gown is paired with the tight belted typical athleisure blazer and topped off further with a sweatband style headpiece.
Zimmermann is known for its boho aesthetic. This collection however, whilst still keeping their signature flowy dresses, incorporated more tailoring. It was still fun and feminine, but a smarter aspect was introduced. Their signature boho look was maintained through incorporating the seventies features into their tailored looks such as the velvet material, the voluminous sleeves and the over all still loose flowy look of the outfits.
Marc Jacobs’ collection was titled ‘Chaos = Form’, he showcased his collection through a choreographed dance performance which celebrated the artistry, madness and movement of New York. The dance brought chaos and excitement to a collection filled with pieces that showcased timelessness and impeccable tailoring. All the pieces worked to incorporate an element of fun, lifted further through the dance performance. Kaia Gerber’s look pictured above was almost a version of Jackie O’s signature pillbox looks, updated into a fluffy texture.